It is difficult to imagine a more inspiring role model for a young scientist than Enrico Fermi. The Italian-born physicist made a string of telling contributions, both theoretical and experimental, across many different areas of physics. The index of any physics encyclopaedia is littered with the evidence: fermions, the fermi (10 l5 metres), the Fermi energy, Fermi gases and liquids, the Fermi surface, Fermilab and so on. Little wonder that physics has such a high profile in Italy. But what would Fermi, who was born in Rome 100 years ago this month, make of the state of Italian physics today?